Siemsens Masonry

At [redacted] Draco Drthe last week of May, I demoed out and hauled to the dump an old block wall which had fallen Over including the footingOver block were the x shaped block she refers toThey are called decorative blockI gave some of these block to two neighbors at no costThey would have went to the dump otherwiseBoth ends of the wall were made of 8x8xinch block, which were built up to be pillarsThese old pillars I removedThe original old rebar in each pillar was still usableI left them intactThe footings at both ends under the pillars were massiveThe footing on the right side between her and the neighbor was a part of the neighbors wall which was leaning heavilyIn my experiêneed Opinion, to have tried to jackhammer out that immense footing Would likely have caused the neighbors wall to fallI did remove all I safely couldOnly about inches of the pillars old footing was in the ditch of the new walls footingNot a problemThe vertical rebar of the old pillar was sticking up feet so I left it as the very end vertical rebar of the new wallYes, it can be called a used rebar, yet it Was still usable coming out of the footingThe other end the wall had a similar massive footingThe vertical rebar coming out of it was also good & StrongThe footing was outside her property lineDue to its size and with no harm to the new walls footing, I left itThe new footing I dug was inches deep and inches wideOn both ends of the footing I drilled into the old pillar footing and doweled in #rebar, thus connecting them to the new footingAlong the full length of the footing I installed pre-bent rebars, #4’s at inches on centerTheir hooks are hooked around a #horizontal rebar in the footing which was suspended inches above the bottom of the footing by 3x3xinch pieces of cement called dobiesShe referred to theseA couple were extras.My pumper can attest to my installing the long #rebar horizontally in the footingAlso to the Vertical rebar being installedSee the pictures she sentSo there was vertical on the right and ieft sideAll rebar was tied that needed to be tiedSome of the “long rebars left behind" had a useThey were three foot long pieces of #rebar slated for use in the top of the wall for a horizontal rebar as part of the bond beam installationShe stopped me from using them by not letting finish the WallAlso about pieces of foot long rebar laying on the ground which are to be drooped down from the top of the wall and overlap about inches the vertical rebar sticking up from the footingThe L shaped rebars left behind" were pre-bentsnot neededThe top two courses of block which would contain the horizontal rebar between them would be filled solid with concreteOn a garden wall in the county, which the county does not require a permit for so there ino CodeOn these county garden walls, I follow the code of the city of LompocThe top two blocks, courses & are to be filled solidAt the bottom of course is placed a grout-stop materialIt is a little less Wide than the block and is placed to cover cellsWhen grouting occurs, it stops concrete from going to the bottom of the WallOnly where the vertical rebar are, 32" O/C, are filledThe paper on one end of the wall Stuffed in the bottom of block or course was simply where I had forgot to place the grout-stop materialI improvised by pushing paper to the bottom of course to simulate grout-stopNot an attempt to make it seem I had filled the cells with concreteRather so that the cells would not be filledAs to the weep-holes I did not leave weep-holes between the joints of the first course of blocks because her yard drains to the frontI can open up some weep-holes if he wants them but they would be of no valueI am within blocks to lay to finish the wall, the last courseShe has paid me $of a $contractAs an experièncëd Journey män mason, and a State liçensed contractor, I need no one to supervise me on any jobI know occasionally some contractors short change peopleI do not and never have in the pastMy reputation is sound and goodShe has been getting advice from family and friends who are feeding her fears that the wall is going to fall overWhen finished by myself, that would be impossible considering my construction as describedMaybe an earthquake could damage itI would like to finish the work I am saddened she feels of completionIf she pays me the $she presently owe me, I would sign off on itSincerely, R [redacted]

Complaint:
I am rejecting this response because:
Although I am not a License Masonry Contractor, I know that a NEW block wall does NOT consist of using existing parts of the original wall and original rebarThe contract states "Demolition of old block wall and footing."
The Contract does not state that the decorative X blocks are going to be clean in my backyard and then sell or “give” them to some of my neighbors
ln MrS*** previous response, he confesses to breaking the contract by saying “In the footing, only remnants of the old foundation.”
In MrS*** July 6, letter to the Revdex.com (third bullet point), he claims that the mortar was not used for the footingHowever, I have my doubts because prior to building the new footing there were nine (9) bags of mortar, and after the footing was made there remained only one (1) bag of mortarHe also claims, “Five yards of concrete were pumped in off a ready-mix truck into the footing,” however, without proof, I cannot be sure that this is true
stopped MrS*** from proceeding in finishing the job because he started the next layer of block without tying the rebar firstIn the first three cells of the wall (left side, looking out to highway) MrS*** had stuffed with paper and pieces of concrete (See Pictures)MrS*** continued to work on the wall even after I had asked him not to come to work until further noticeHm that time, I was planning to get the wall inspected because I had my concerns due to the breaking of the contractAt this point, believe MrS*** had tried to finish as much of the wall that he could so that he would be paid the amount agreed on in the contract and to cover up his mistakesHowever, the contract was no longer valid the moment he laid the footing with pieces of original wall (See Pictures)
Although the cement cylinder (pillar) has no bearing on MrS***'s work on the wall, it does not change the fact that he took it without notifying me and I would like it back
Regards,
M*** ***

At [redacted] Draco Dr. the last week of May, I demoed out and hauled to the...

dump an old block wall which had fallen Over including the footing. Over 100 block were the x shaped block she refers to. They are called decorative block. I gave some of these block to two neighbors at no cost. They would have went to the dump otherwise.
Both ends of the wall were made of 8x8x16 inch block, which were built up to be pillars. These old pillars I removed. The original old rebar in each pillar was still usable. I left them intact. The footings at both ends under the pillars were massive. The footing on the right side between her and the neighbor was a part of the neighbors wall which was leaning heavily. In my experiêneed Opinion, to have tried to jackhammer out that immense footing Would likely have caused the neighbors wall to fall. I did remove all I safely could. Only about 10 inches of the pillars old footing was in the ditch of the new walls footing. Not a problem. The vertical rebar of the old pillar was sticking up 3 feet so I left it as the very end vertical rebar of the new wall. Yes, it can be called a used rebar, yet it Was still usable coming out of the footing. The other end the wall had a similar massive footing. The vertical rebar coming out of it was also good & Strong. The footing was outside her property line. Due to its size and with no harm to the new walls footing, I left it. The new footing I dug was 19 inches deep and 17 inches wide. On both ends of the footing I drilled into the old pillar footing and doweled in #4 rebar, thus connecting them to the new footing. Along the full length of the footing I installed pre-bent rebars, #4’s at 32 inches on center. Their hooks are hooked around a #4 horizontal rebar in the footing which was suspended 3 inches above the bottom of the footing by 3x3x3 inch pieces of cement called dobies. She referred to these. A couple were extras.My pumper can attest to my installing the long #4 rebar horizontally in the footing. Also to the Vertical rebar being installed. See the pictures she sent. So there was vertical on the right and ieft side. All rebar was tied that needed to be tied.
Some of the “long rebars left behind" had a use. They were three 20 foot long pieces of #4 rebar slated for use in the top of the wall for a horizontal rebar as part of the bond beam installation. She stopped me from using them by not letting finish the Wall. Also about 25 pieces of 5 foot long rebar laying on the ground which are to be drooped down from the top of the wall and overlap about 30 inches the vertical rebar sticking up from the footing. The L shaped rebars left behind" were pre-bents.. not needed. The top two courses of block which would contain the horizontal rebar between them would be filled solid with concrete. On a garden wall in the county, which the county does not require a permit for so there i5 no Code.
On these county garden walls, I follow the code of the city of Lompoc. The top two blocks, courses 8 & 9 are to be filled solid. At the bottom of course 8 is placed a grout-stop material. It is a little less Wide than the block and is placed to cover 3 cells. When grouting occurs, it stops concrete from going to the bottom of the Wall. Only where the vertical rebar are, 32" O/C, are filled. The paper on one end of the wall Stuffed in the bottom of block or course 8 was simply where I had forgot to place the grout-stop material. I improvised by pushing paper to the bottom of course 8 to simulate grout-stop. Not an attempt to make it seem I had filled the cells with concrete. Rather so that the cells would not be filled.
As to the weep-holes… I did not leave weep-holes between the joints of the first course of blocks because her yard drains to the front. I can open up some weep-holes if he wants them but they would be of no value.
I am within 50 blocks to lay to finish the wall, the last course.
She has paid me $2000.00 of a $6000.00 contract. As an experièncëd Journey män mason, and a State liçensed contractor, I need no one to supervise me on any job. I know occasionally some contractors short change people. I do not and never have in the past. My reputation is sound and good. She has been getting advice from family and friends who are feeding her fears that the wall is going to fall over. When finished by myself, that would be impossible considering my construction as described. Maybe an 9.0 earthquake could damage it.
I would like to finish the work I am saddened she feels of completion. If she pays me the $3500.00 she presently owe me, I would sign off on it.
Sincerely,
R[redacted]

Review: My complaint is: The old pillars were not removed There was some of the long rebars and L shape rebars and a 3 square cement to tie the rebars left behind (Please see pictures). From the foundation.Some of old rebars were re-usedNo vertical rebar on right side, the steel is not tied in place and am not sure if he used the horizontal rebar in the foundation. And there is not rain weep holes on both sides (only the side facing the HWY has them).Desired Settlement: Mr. Siemsens needs to redo the foundation and I need to be present when he does this: foundation, ties the rebars and concrete distributed. I will need to request time off from work and Mr. Siemsens will need to pay for my leave. And return my cement cylinder (pillar) and either deduct or return my X shape blocks.

Business

Response:

At [redacted] Draco Dr. the last week of May, I demoed out and hauled to the dump an old block wall which had fallen Over including the footing. Over 100 block were the x shaped block she refers to. They are called decorative block. I gave some of these block to two neighbors at no cost. They would have went to the dump otherwise.Both ends of the wall were made of 8x8x16 inch block, which were built up to be pillars. These old pillars I removed. The original old rebar in each pillar was still usable. I left them intact. The footings at both ends under the pillars were massive. The footing on the right side between her and the neighbor was a part of the neighbors wall which was leaning heavily. In my experiêneed Opinion, to have tried to jackhammer out that immense footing Would likely have caused the neighbors wall to fall. I did remove all I safely could. Only about 10 inches of the pillars old footing was in the ditch of the new walls footing. Not a problem. The vertical rebar of the old pillar was sticking up 3 feet so I left it as the very end vertical rebar of the new wall. Yes, it can be called a used rebar, yet it Was still usable coming out of the footing. The other end the wall had a similar massive footing. The vertical rebar coming out of it was also good & Strong. The footing was outside her property line. Due to its size and with no harm to the new walls footing, I left it. The new footing I dug was 19 inches deep and 17 inches wide. On both ends of the footing I drilled into the old pillar footing and doweled in #4 rebar, thus connecting them to the new footing. Along the full length of the footing I installed pre-bent rebars, #4’s at 32 inches on center. Their hooks are hooked around a #4 horizontal rebar in the footing which was suspended 3 inches above the bottom of the footing by 3x3x3 inch pieces of cement called dobies. She referred to these. A couple were extras.My pumper can attest to my installing the long #4 rebar horizontally in the footing. Also to the Vertical rebar being installed. See the pictures she sent. So there was vertical on the right and ieft side. All rebar was tied that needed to be tied.Some of the “long rebars left behind" had a use. They were three 20 foot long pieces of #4 rebar slated for use in the top of the wall for a horizontal rebar as part of the bond beam installation. She stopped me from using them by not letting finish the Wall. Also about 25 pieces of 5 foot long rebar laying on the ground which are to be drooped down from the top of the wall and overlap about 30 inches the vertical rebar sticking up from the footing. The L shaped rebars left behind" were pre-bents.. not needed. The top two courses of block which would contain the horizontal rebar between them would be filled solid with concrete. On a garden wall in the county, which the county does not require a permit for so there i5 no Code.On these county garden walls, I follow the code of the city of Lompoc. The top two blocks, courses 8 & 9 are to be filled solid. At the bottom of course 8 is placed a grout-stop material. It is a little less Wide than the block and is placed to cover 3 cells. When grouting occurs, it stops concrete from going to the bottom of the Wall. Only where the vertical rebar are, 32" O/C, are filled. The paper on one end of the wall Stuffed in the bottom of block or course 8 was simply where I had forgot to place the grout-stop material. I improvised by pushing paper to the bottom of course 8 to simulate grout-stop. Not an attempt to make it seem I had filled the cells with concrete. Rather so that the cells would not be filled.As to the weep-holes… I did not leave weep-holes between the joints of the first course of blocks because her yard drains to the front. I can open up some weep-holes if he wants them but they would be of no value.I am within 50 blocks to lay to finish the wall, the last course.She has paid me $2000.00 of a $6000.00 contract. As an experièncëd Journey män mason, and a State liçensed contractor, I need no one to supervise me on any job. I know occasionally some contractors short change people. I do not and never have in the past. My reputation is sound and good. She has been getting advice from family and friends who are feeding her fears that the wall is going to fall over. When finished by myself, that would be impossible considering my construction as described. Maybe an 9.0 earthquake could damage it.I would like to finish the work I am saddened she feels of completion. If she pays me the $3500.00 she presently owe me, I would sign off on it.Sincerely,R[redacted]